What a joy it is when a social event pushes me to get of the loop and makes me finally do what should have been done long ago. For example, finally I read “To Kill a Mockingbird”, and, well, I must admit it would feel embarassing to answer “no” to Kozlovsky’s question if I read the book (by the way, he hasn’t read it yet). Peresmeshnik Bar (the name means ‘mockingbird’ in English) has no direct connection to the book, however some allusions and references on the instinct and visual level can be spotted here and there. Peresmeshnik is a stylish and serious bar, it has a recognizable, yet subtle character, and it suits the purpose.
It seems to me, I have guessed right. When you enter Peresmeshnik, you find yourself in an abandoned, ivy-covered church from the old times about which it is written in the books. If you sit at the bar counter, a full immersion is created: an inverted organ, the bottle shelves build a massive cross, behind you to the left there is a special balcony for reading sermons or observing the parishioners. But now, a DJ occupies this balcony. In fact, there is nothing to be changed: the one who should set you up for the right emotional and spiritual recovery exactly in her/his place. Bartenders with recognizable white collars (they will listen and absolve of sins) and waiters with crosses in their ears supplement the big picture. A chapel-squat. There are psychedelic projections on the walls; the bathrooms are full of candles, and everywhere you can see the cracked tile (and I vividly see how the tile was kicked on and off, what an excellent stress-solving exercise it must have been!). A mockingbird is about to fly over the bar, the one who does not eat berries and is harmless, it only sings much to everyone’s delight.
These ascetic scenes create a perfect background for a real play of taste to be played out. I have already written about the fact that cereals and groats will eventually become a new trend in Minsk – it started with groats as garnishes for beef cheeks, and now groats and cereals are gaining more and more attention. In Peresmeshnik I discovered bulgur with duck breast garnished with a bed of kiwi and red onions.
As for the bar, there is a circumspect approach. All drinks are light, fluffy and canorous – an excellent accompaniment, although as a solo they might get you bored quite quickly. But this problem is easily solved by the maestros – Kozlovsky & Co., if ingredients are available – they will serve any classics. However, Peresmeshnik’s signature cocktails deserve further attention. I have never seen an idea being laid so thoroughly on the cocktail menu – all the cocktails are like yellow-beaked birds: ’Jay’ (or ’Soika’ in Russian), ’Mockingbird’ (served with popcorn, so the smell is truly astounding), plus the one, I don’t remember the correct name of, with gummy bears.
Yes, I liked Peresmeshnik very much. There is no doubt that it will repeat the success of Vinny Shkaf, and it will probably even surpass it. At first it will certainly attract an exceptionally fancy crowd. But I’ll wait a while. I’ll wait till this first wave subsides, the counter becomes rubbed and bristled – and when it happens, my kicks will pop up there more often.
Nemiga Street 5\1, Minsk
Sun-Thu 12:00 — 01:00
Fri-Sat 12:00 — 03:00
phone 8 029 140-40-66
images — facebook.com/peresmeshnikbar/