I write about food at rare occasions, but there are times when it’s simply impossible to remain silent. Cocktail Bellboy has long been famous for its drinks, service and the atmosphere of an absolutely pulled-out-of-reality place. When they began to publish ‘teasers’ of what was called #magicalbrunch on Instagram accounts they increased their credibility in my eyes. These guys know how to take you to the garden of pleasure, indulgence and hedonism in the heat of the day.

In the case of Bellboy, I like everything. The way the waiters play their roles, how playfully and easily they communicate with the guests and how the common brunch is turned into a theatrical performance. In the middle of the room there’s a hidden punchbowl behind the flowers, with butterflies flying around them. Waiters and waitresses with flowers in their hair enthusiastically talk about dishes, while laying snacks and bread on special stub stands and flowers that are strung on a similar stump. And here you are sitting in a bar and some fabulous food slowly starts mounting around you. A moment later, potato soup with flakes appears in front of you, and then, after a while, your well-deserved morning cocktail. Perfect Irish Coffee fits into this picture so well that you can’t think of anything better.

Then comes the main course: a stack of pumpkin pancakes with bacon and banana, a basket of club sandwiches, Benedict eggs or buns with salmon and black caviar. Or steak with scrambled eggs and fried directly on your plate potatoes, or a salad with a goose and a golden egg in the middle. Only by a very sight of all of this you get some indescribable delight (I am naturally impressionable, but it’s all created, cooked and served in a very incredible manner). And as a dessert – signature shots from oyster shells, which are rolled out on a children’s cart.

I officially declare that the brunch in Bellboy is now Tel Aviv’s attraction of the same importance as the Art Museum (which I must admit is excellent) or the old Jaffa. Table booking in advance is required.

 

Berdichevsky 14, Tel Aviv

Brunch on Fridays and Saturdays from 11:00 a.m.to 4:00 p.m.

120 NIS per person (refreshable snacks on the table, hot meal and morning cocktail)